For spring 2013, Prada took us on a trip to the tearoom, reinterpreting traditional Japanese silhouettes and motifs in a radical revamp tinged with Cubism and Futurism.
The collection offered a fascinating deconstruction of Nipponese formal dress elements: disassembled kimono folds with a jumbled sensibility that could have been pulled directly from one of Picasso’s mid-career sculptures, sci-fi worthy gold and silver lamé tabi socks, and floral devices that would be at home on a prized matcha bowl. Faces echoed historical geisha’s maquillage—complexions blanched and perfectly matte, the sole mark a slash of crimson across lips.
Miuccia Prada’s work has always had a cerebral streak that manifests itself in unexpected places, but this collection was an intellectual exercise writ large. It’s the perfect rebuttal to anyone who’s ever argued that fashion is not art, and a reminder that Prada is as recondite as she is brilliant.